New York

Some supporting actors were destined to outshine their movies' stars, like the preternaturally gifted Philip Seymour Hoffman, and Greedo. Now getting long-deserved top billing: the baked potato, at Totally Baked, opening Monday.

TB's a 14-seat counter-service joint whose menu is completely devoted to gloriously loaded 14oz spuds -- a side best known for its role as the best part of Sizzler. Either stuff-your-own with any three basic toppings (cheddar cheese, sour cream, grilled steak...), or select from 13 more esoteric "Favorites", e.g., Creamed Spinach w/ frizzled leeks and manchego, or Pulled Pork w/ "Mexican slaw", referred to by Carlos Mencia as "wetsnack". The wackiest offerings are the Cape Cod Chowder (creamed cod, parsley, garlic), and the $55 Truffle, topped with truffle compound butter, truffle oil, truffle salt, and buyer's remorse.

Besides potatoes proper, TB also serves up spud-based soups (potato leek, sweet potato) and ice creams (sweet potato heath bar crunch), plus salads -- which also come as tiny sides, a pigeonholed role that's got them considering hiring Baked Potato's agent. And firing Shatner's.

---