New York

11.17.08

At Vermilion

As men clumsily try to understand the feminine mystique, they find themselves asking questions like "what do women want?" and "why can't it be my pud?". Suggesting what women really want is an Indian-Southern European restaurant empire: At Vermilion.

A huge, bi-level culinary palace made exotically chic with glowing glass columns, a two-story waterfall, and giant b&w photos of mad sexy Indian dancers, V's the NY outpost of a same-named Chitown spot; helmed by a former McKinsey consultant and World Bank economist, the entire joint's devoted to the cause of female empowerment, just like Paul Wolfowitz. Upstairs in the 200-seat dining room, V's two femme-chefs sling traditional Indian (Mangalorean Lamb Shank Gassi, Boar Jibarito) plus fusion (Chimichurri Kadai NY Strip, Octopus Escabeche) inspired by cross-pollination among the Persians, Spanish, Portuguese, and Moors, or, as referred to by Robin Hood's casting agent, The Morgan Freemans. Downstairs, the 80-person barroom pours gal-friendly cocktails (Cucumber Mint Martini, etc) and lush-friendly Chilean/Argentinean/Spanish vino selected by the owner -- whose World Bank tenure taught her nobody appreciates wine more than unemployed bankers.

For private events, V rocks an upstairs private dining room that seats 20 -- but it's downstairs at a table for two where you'll discover what women really want: for you to pay for their dinner.

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