New York

Brother to the same-named Hamptons spot, this billiards-equipped, wood-decked resto's slinging Ameri-grub (steaks, burgers, & gravy fries) and local hops (Checker Cab, Ommegang's Rare VOS), plus "pan-Euro" fare like lamb belly, braised pork shank, and frog legs + escargot vol-au-vent, or "flying with the wind" -- a cooking style that in this case just doesn't make any f***ing sense.