They say you can never go home again, and it's definitely true, especially if you go back to the alternate 1985, there're bars on your windows, and a young girl and her bat-wielding father now live in your house. For a Queen Village eatery making a homecoming of sorts, Kennett.
Situated in the former Lyon's Den spot that was Kennett Cafe for 62 years, Kennett-not-Cafe's a neighborhood sleeve plating locally sourced dishes "for vegetarians and omnivores" from a guy who used to run Yard's Tasting Room and grew up right around the corner from the new joint, whose comfy confines include deep red walls filled with old-ass b&w site pics and tables handmade by the GM's dad, but not GM's dad, who still hasn't forgiven it for making the Pontiac Aztek. Eats include small plates like new potatoes w/ preserved lemon and prosciutto/pork terrine charcuterie plates, while bigger stuff involves beef/ turkey/ veggie burgers, an organic roasted half chicken w/ vanilla toasted barley, Brussels sprouts & brown butter, and cavolo nero w/ wild-caught steelhead salmon, still less wild than salmon served with cavolo caligula. The cocktail list, crafted with help from the minds behind Noble and Catahoula's tipples, features winners like the Old Grandad/ lemon/ honey/ apple cider Stone Fence, the rum/ lime juice/ date & walnut brown sugar syrup/ anisette Melville, and the rye/ vermouth/ absinthe Remember the Maine, though drink them all and you likely won't.
For beer-drankin', it's mainly local jawns like Flying Fish's Grand Cru and Troeg's Troegenator, and a lineup of wood-fired pizzas should be available in about a week or so, by which point you'll realize that you can go home again, albeit to a casino Biff owns, where he's married to your mom and forces her to get boob jobs.
Published: December 9, 2010 at 4:00am EST
848 S 2nd St
Philadelphia, PA 19147
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