San Francisco

Thrillist San Francisco
Emailed on: Thursday November 8, 2007

Red Lantern

808 Winslow St, at Broadway; Redwood City; 650.369.5483

Opening a restaurant is fraught with hurdles, whether it's a pesky health inspector, or California Cuisine that critics conclude "tastes like Fresno". Overcoming the obstacle of "soul-crushing space", Red Lantern.

Run by a chef+manager team from Betelnut, just-opened Lantern was the former home of Redwood City's social security agency, disbanded to thwart the first wave of Boomers to have their liver-spotted hands out. To chase away that legacy of drabness, the Lantern imported over $500K in Asian art, ranging from Tang Dynasty statues to Indonesian mahogany carvings to an ancient Cambodian ox-cart wheel (attn art thieves: what the latter lacks in value, it makes up for in instant portability). The Southeast Asian fusion's highlighted by Lamb Shank in Cardamom Infused Yogurt, Seared Foie Gras on Toasted Coconut Rice, and Braised Short Ribs w/ River Stone Cracked Garlic Black Pepper -- a far cry from the saltines and government cheese smuggled in the Member's Only pockets of the desperate and old.

Red Lantern will also sell original art by Filipino painters -- which will add spirit and decorative flavor when your empty retiree lock box forces you to spend your Golden Years in a Central Valley tract home.

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