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Thrillist San Francisco

La Mar Cebicheria Peruana

Masters of their home country's native arts often relocate to the States, where they're lauded both for greatness, and novelty -- John Woo exported his Hong Kong action steez, and Mr. Bean went from the preeminent idiot in Britain to the British idiot. Carrying the banner of Peruvian cheffery, Gaston Acurio, at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana.

La Mar's a 200+ seat Peruvian seafood shrine helmed by Le Cordon Bleu-trained Acurio, who for a dozen years has run one of Lima's premier fine dining establishments (Astrid & Gastón -- easier to pronounce, harder to get to on MUNI). The layout begins with a wrapping cebiche bar lined with cases of recently executed finned & tentacled creatures, then moves on to a high-ceilinged, mahogany-rich dining room sporting blue woven chairs 'n booths and sweeping views of the exhibition kitchen, outdoor patio, and Bay beyond -- a rich range of options for avoiding eye contact with your date. The starter menu includes 12 cebiches (squid, salmon, snapper, yellowtail...), tiraditos (thinly sliced Peruvian sashimi), and anticuchos (kebabs of roasted prawn, octopus, and seabass); entrees are highlighted by Peruvian stir fry (saltados, which could include everything from chili/tomato/beef to seafood/peppers/mushrooms), and tacu tacus -- fish fried w/ creamy Inca pallar beans, it's the #1 dish at Lima's Poco Caesars.

For inter-hemispheric boozing, a pisco-centric bar, where they'll serve up around a dozen specialty 'tails, including a Pisco Sour and a Pisco Punch, a drink actually invented in turn-of-the-century San Francisco -- right after Pisco left Peru, convinced in his heart there was a big bold world to inebriate.

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La Mar Cebicheria Peruana (Emailed on September 25, 2008)

At Pier 1.5 (The Embarcadero, at Washington St); 415.397.8880

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