Slang can be an affectionate way to refer to the things one holds dearest, like calling your lady friend boo, and your little friend something that makes it sound much, much not littler. Taste that slangy love, at Panam.

From the two Frenchies behind Choquets and Blush!, Panam's a "neo French fusion" resto-cum-late-night lounge whose name's slang for Paris in frog-speak; it sits in the swanky, bi-level space where Frisee once was, and boasts ample mezzanine seating, a handsome, polished wood bar, and a calm, cream-ish paint scheme that's different than Frisee's in that it's...not all red. Kicking off the menu're titillating apps like duck ravioli with chanterelles in a porto raisin juice & truffle/thyme emulsion, a parsley-tempura frog leg persillade, and sunflower/salty guerand oil-aided fennel and French green beans, which're like regular green beans, but constantly smoking while topless. Mains're just as delectable, and range from the "Halibut Demi Sel" (with artichoke n' tomato/mizuna tartare), to the Muscovy duck breast w/ spaetzle and forest shrooms, to the braised salsifis/pearl onion-flanked "Chicken Gran-Mere", which spoils you, then your appetite, then falls asleep in the chair watching Murder She Wrote.

Washing it all down's a 50-bottle internationally sourced wine list. Also, after dinner service winds down, a paired down list o' bar bites'll be offered 'til 1am -- a sampling of late night treats guaranteed to make everything but your little friend much, much not littler.

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