Children of immigrants face a perpetual dilemma: cling tightly to tradition, or succumb to the temptations of assimilation, which of course means doin' The Butt. Deciding to both honor and flaunt tradition, Thai Fusion.

A dark, triangular resto-lounge featuring b&w Thailand shots, colorfully stylized cafeteria seats, a room-splitting bamboo installation, and, at its apex, an oversized bar watched over by a blue back-lit elephant, Fusion's run by two sisters, both former bartenders, who're on a two-headed mission: right the wrongs done by other establishments to traditional Thai family-style fare, and tweak that same tradition with creative Americanization, all under the ballsy banner "Damn Good Thai Fusion Cuisine". Accordingly, "Classic Thai" fare runs from apps like fire-grilled beef short ribs and mango-salsa'd Dungeness crab cakes, to loads of curry dishes (red, green, yellow, Panang); to starch like a spicy take on drunken noodles the sisters call "Hammered", and Bangkok Street Noodles, which feature pork/sweet baby lettuce/sprouts/cilantro, and not a violent gang of ladyboys. "Fusion" starts with signature sandos (the spicy-peanut/pepper-jack beef "Bangkok Burger", pulled pork/'slaw Satay Sliders, the brie/caramelized onions "Giant Shroom Burger"...), then moves on to mains like a grape-sauced flank steak salad, the fire-roasted/spicy tamarind'd Flambe Volcano Chicken, and the Thai spice rubbed/flash-fried Northwest Salmon Almond Crisp, a.k.a., the world's least popular breakfast cereal.

To fuse with booze, there's a full bar, stalwart NW taps (Manny's, Mac & Jack's, Pyramid), and a happy hour featuring $1PBR tall boys and $4.95 apps; for further fatness, there's the cheekily named "Happy Endings" section, where you'll find actual desserts, plus a peach schnapps/white chocolate number served with a real $1 coin, dubbed the "Money Shot" -- also the unfortunate in-pants result when you assimilate too vigorously to The Butt.

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