thrillist

More than most cities, Miami embodies the eternal struggle between man and nature: new condos vs. hurricanes, spandex-clad joggers vs. prehistoric alligators, oppressively man-scaped male models vs...you. Striking a perfect balance, Red Light.

With Red Light, the former Mark's in the Grove chef literally rousted squatters from a forgotten diner, then cleaned up its Little River-abutting back patio, to create a classily retro cafe that counters tropical palm fronds and passing manatees with Biscayne Blvd's heady MiMo architecture and head-y prostitute holdouts. The eclectic, regional cuisine varies seasonally, and trends towards the likes of coconut key lime fish chowder; hand-rubbed river-smoked ribs; mac & cheese w/fontina, Morbier, and American cheddar; and smoked, tomato-baked triggerfish w/ spicy Trinidad-style corn hash (more seasonally appropriate than Tobagan). For lazy creekside sippin', bevs include sake, Canadian, French, and American whites, a smaller # of reds, plus beer-geek ales like Avery White Rascal from Colorado, Rogue Dead Guy from Oregon, and Dogfish Head IPA from Delaware -- improbably incorporated in not-Delaware.

Red Light also plans to refurbish a basement lounge that hosted live music back in the '50s-'60s, a task that'll no doubt bring in Miami's 3rd inexorable force: flinty-eyed nightlife promoters.

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Red Light will do daylight, as they open for lunch Thursday through Sunday starting this week.