Staple & Fancy Mercantile
This place's name says it all. Chef Ethan Stowell offers à la carte "Staple" choices, as well as a multi-course "Fancy" chef's tasting menu. The former includes a variety of Italian-inspired eats, like gnocchi with housemade fennel sausage and braised lamb shank, while the latter includes $55 worth of the chef's choice. Either way, you can't go wrong.
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It's called Staple & Fancy for a few reasons: 1) Their staple a la carte offerings as well as their chef's tasting menu, and 2) from the original eponymous hand-painted signs found behind a plaster wall. What was once a machine/mercantile shop is now the most interesting of local chef Ethan Stowell's various Italian-inspired ventures, especially when you let the chef feed you his own choice of apps, mains, desserts, etc.