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Masa 14

Collaboration between two masters can produce greatness unachievable for either alone, as with Stallone and Kurt Russell in Tango & Cash, or Double Impact, where Van Damme teamed up with...himself, because really, no one else is at Jean-Claude's level. Now, two masters are doubling the dietary van dammage, at Masa 14.

The culinary love-child of chefs Kaz Okochi (Kaz's Sushi Bistro) and Richard Sandoval (Zengo), Masa fuses the talents of both into a startling array of Latin/Asian small plates, in a handsome, open-kitchen 100-seater boasting concrete floors, unpainted hickory frames and accents, and a brick wall-backed 65ft bar, allowing you to take your drink-slide-and-wink move to the next level and beyond. Everything's split into hot and cold, with the former including the likes of Wok Steamed Mussels in chipotle-miso broth and Masa-panko Calamari with madras curry/red jalapeno/tat soi/chile sauce; and the latter represented by numbers like the ponzu/serrano/sriracha/"micro wasabi" Yellowtail Tiradito, and the wasabi/horseradish cream/tomatillo chutney Tequila Cured Salmon, proving that salmon didn't need no stinking doctor after all. The rest of the menu runs from haut-starch (egg noodle/mushroom/nori Pork Tan Tan Noodles), to tacos (Pork Belly Al Pastor with pineapple preserve/red fresno/cilantro/pickled onion), to wood-oven action like the black bean/oaxaca cheese/salsa/avocado Beef Tenderloin Huarache, the manchego/cantaloupe/arugula Serrano Ham Flatbread, and the wasabi aioli/capers/yuzu Tuna Sashimi Flatbread -- for when you're fleeing Egypt, and have no time to let the fish cook or the bread rise.

There's also enough hooch to slake two continents' thirst, with 62 wines by the bottle (19 by the glass), 14 taps, schloads of hot and cold sake, and a whopping 100 tequilas, from Gran Patron Burdeos, to El Jimador Platinum, to Oro Azul -- more than anyone could fit into a single evening, unless they were Time Cop.

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Masa 14 (Emailed on October 12, 2009)

Opening today; 1825 14th Street NW; U Street; 202.328.1414

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