The Publican Pork, oysters, and beer on Fulton

Dominated by an armada of walnut tables joined to form a single communal one, the Blackbird/avec team's take on boisterous Euro brasseries and beer halls slings 150+ global bottles and 12 taps, from Norway's Nägne ä God Jul Winter Ale to Munster, Indiana's Munsterfest. The menu's anchored by heirloom pork & seafood, including house-made charcuterie (crispy-skinned pork belly, country terrine, Morteau sausage), tripe & blood sausage gratin, wood-roasted black sea bass, and oysters from exotically dismal locales like Strangers Bay and Desolation Sound -- or, what escapes your mouth just before saying, "ä God, I'm in Munster, Indiana".