Dallas

Dogs, elevated

In recent years the hamburger has justifiably been elevated to gourmet status, but what about its best friends, cased meats? Are they just supposed to sit around charring on the grill and wishing the hamburger success? Lifting them up where they belong: Everyone's Frank, open today.Conceived by a Buffalo-native resto honcho and a third-gen deli man from Utica, Frank's a red-and-white tiled, stone-accented "Artisan Sausage Grille" awash in B&W images of its 94-yr-old Buffalo supplier and semi-namesake, Frank Wardynski & Sons, including one of RFK fronting the biz's billboard, suggesting he knew what was really in voters' hearts. Prepped by an ex-Nick & Sam's sous chef, the char-grilled, all-natural, preservative/gluten-free meat-sticks are served in dense Costanzo's rolls, and start with pork/beef/turkey dogs, brats, Polish/Italian sausage, funky chicken recipes (spinach & asiago, sweet red pepper & basil, apple), and game-sausage numbers like brandy-apple duck or chipotle buffalo, which is hot like the Sabres were until someone came along and Bruin'd everything. Toppings include 10 condiments (from 3 mustards to hot piccalilli green-tomato relish), 14 veggies (3 onions, olives, mushrooms...), and 8 cheeses (Swiss, cheddar, feta...sauce), as well as salad dressings, chili, and bacon; because you're always still-kinda-hungry, sides range from sausage'd green beans to crumb-topped Five-Cheese Mac, also the name of a Stevie Nicks side project that ballooned into a full-time gig. To hone your senses, Frank offers bottled beers from Shiner to Labatt's Blue, by-the-glass reds/whites, frozen margs, and one signature drink: the frozen vodka/lemon juice/sweet tea "Ice Pick" -- similar to a drink named after the best friend burgers, cased meats, and vodka ever had: John Daly.

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