T he last time I saw Evan Funke, it wasn’t in a restaurant, or at a food festival, or even stuck in traffic. Instead, it turns out that Funke and I (both broad, bearded men) go to the same barber to take care of our errant facial hair: a no-frills, dude-focused shop staffed entirely by barbers with razor blade tattoos and punk rock tees. Despite the care that goes into the meticulously crafted, critically acclaimed pasta at his restaurant, Felix, Funke is a man of the people.
That’s part of his appeal, and the reason Felix has garnered near-unanimous acclaim. (Felix is one of Thrillist's 13 best new restaurants in 2017.) Funke doesn’t hide in the kitchen, nor does he occupy a traditional front-of-house position in his restaurant; instead, his pasta-making room is smack in the middle of Felix and visible from nearly any seat in the house, acting as a sort of dare to anyone who wants to question his chef bona fides.

pasta is an animal

Wonho Lee/Thrillist

excellence does not live

Wonho Lee/Thrillist
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