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Food & Drink

New York's Best Old-School Pizzeria Is Making Some Big Changes

Published On 04/18/2017
Cole Saladino/Thrillist
Cole Saladino/Thrillist
“I SAID I MADE EVERY PIE, SO NOW I HAVE TO MAKE EVERY PIE.” -- Dom DeMarco Sr.
“CHANGE IS GREAT, BUT FOR THE PIZZAS, I BELIEVE IN DOING THINGS THE OLD WAY” - Dom DeMarco Jr.
Cole Saladino/Thrillist
"I see places like Carnegie Deli close down that have been in business for so long." -- Margaret Mieles, DeMarco Sr.’s daughter
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Balthazar, the NYC Restaurant That Made French Food Cool, Turns 20

Published On 04/21/2017
T he rose-hued light glinting off the downward-tilted gilded mirrors, the high-backed red leather banquettes, the patina on the walls that look aged with decades of smoke, the wafting aroma of snails in garlic and butter -- it all evokes Paris in a visceral way. So do the servers dressed in all-black with white aprons, some of whom say their uniforms make them feel they're in a play instead of a dining hall. But, then, Balthazar from the beginning has been a kind of theater, the play always the same and always different, on a set where 10,000 customers have crossed the tiled floor every week for the past 20 years.
James Leynse/Corbis Historical/Getty Images

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