Sandwich-named steakhouse makes its way down South

Men will take steak anyway they can get it: from a backyard grill, an old school chop house, or -- for fans of smooth jazz and time machines -- Steak & Ale. Now, get glamor-steaks from a Frenchman, at BLT Steak

A lofty bistro-steakhouse hybrid helmed by French culinary juggernaut Laurent Tourondel, BLT's first Southern outpost fuses Georgia ambiance with the anti-antebellum style of the host W Hotel: herringbone floors, a black walnut bar, Macassar ebony tables, and caramel banquettes. Bovine options include Japanese strip and American Wagyu top cap, hangers, rib eyes, and porterhouses, all corn-fed, naturally aged, and finished with herb butter, with a choice of sauces like red wine, peppercorn, and "3 mustards" (ask for Grey Poupon, and they'll key your Rolls). Non-beef highlights: a monster raw bar, sauteed Dover sole, and veal chops, plus sides from onion rings to "Popovers" -- light, hollow egg-batter rolls, not strangers who plop down at your table and eat your popovers

Booze is joyously plentiful, from cocktails like the Gin-ger Cucumber Cooler, to ports, Madeiras, and cognacs from Hennessy to Louis XIII, to a massive wine list (magnums available by courageous request), to beers like Ommegang Wheat and Duvel Belgian Golden Ale -- which combined with your steak, makes you wonder how those geniuses at S&A ever went tits up.