Every son faces a choice: follow in dad's footsteps, or break off on his own, even if it makes his mom cry and his little brother run desperately after his train (or, if dad's right and the guy won't ever amount to anything, bus). Honoring dad's path while following his own, the man behind Quattro Gatti Austin.Bringing centuries-old cooking to an elegantly dim, open-kitchen bistro tiled with mosaics direct from Italy, Quattro's a far-flung outpost of an Upper East Side NY eatery; the new spot's helmed by the original founder's son, who after falling in love with the Hill Country decided that Austin would be a prime location for a Gatti that didn't offer Dutch Apple Treat. The "Primi" course is dominated by pastas like gnocchi alla Sorrentina (w/ tomato sauce, mozz, basil), spaghetti puttanesca (tomato sauce, anchovies, capers, black olives), and tagliolini boscaiola (wild mushrooms, peas, sun-dried tomatoes, light cream), while "Secondi" runs from "Pollo 4 Gatti" (chicken breast w/ prosciutto, asparagus, mozz, light cream) to branzino al forno, a whole oven-roasted sea bass that was much happier sleeping with the fishes. Baked in a traditional brick-lined, wood burning oven, classic artisanal pies include the Margherita, the Montanara (prosciutto, fontina, arugula, Parmigiano), and the mushrooms/ham/artichokes/olives Quattro Stagioni, which roughly translates as "The Four Seasons", fulfilling Frankie Valli's lifelong dream of a pizza that will delight millions of old people. To loosen you up, Quattro also boasts a walk-in wine cellar with an ever-evolving selection of Italian wine -- reds, whites, and bubblies that'll help you work up the courage to get your ass on that bus.