For Manoj Devkota, good sekuwa -- Nepali kebabs -- should be more than tender and smoky from their blazing sear over a charcoal grill.

The best way I've found to describe chef Will Horowitz's mystifying cantaloupe burger is by using a Star Wars analogy: Imagine you're at the Mos Eisley cantina on Tatooine and the barkeep informs you that it's binka burger night.