Viniculture places a large emphasis on terroir, but soil properties are just as important when it comes to food, especially if you plan on digging into it with your face while filming a local news segment on grape-stomping. Taking terroir to heart, Telegraph.
Brought to you by the Webster's Wine Bar team and a former Avec chef, Telegraph is dialing into terroir not just with regard to its list of vinos from small-batch Euro producers, but also its domestically sourced seasonal American cuisine; that rustic approach is echoed by the room's reclaimed wood furniture, antique mirrors, and light fixtures from an old airport bomb shelter, which can no longer exist, because you can't talk about it an airport. The food starts off with plates of sweetbread-studded fresh pasta (w/ rhubarb Agrodolce, honey & oregano), dill creme fraiche'd frog legs, and fried burrata w/ shaved artichokes and a balsamic reduction, about the only time you want to reduce your bals. Main highlights include kippered walleye w/ orecchiette, fava beans and herbs, a dried-fruit-glazed half chicken, and grilled lamb with cherries, pumpernickel/ginger veloute, and Blue Pool oysters, who will undoubtedly convert you to their cult.
And as it is a wine bar, the 12 glass tipples (from triple-fermented Italian sparkling reds out of Italy, to a '99 Guy Bossard Muscadet poured from a magnum) will rotate with the menu, while other offerings range from large-format bottles ideal for tastings and chef's dinners, to an array of 10yr-plus "mature" wines, which has to remain in quotes, as they laughed like jackals at the Sand Person noises coming from that poor wine lady's mouth.