Working for others is essential to learning any trade, but eventually you've got to go off on your own -- Spencer Davis might have taught Steve Winwood to be a Man, but what good is that without Higher Love? Finally going it alone, the man behind Entree, soft opening today
From an Aussie who spent the last 10 years opening over a dozen restos for others, Entree's a white-tiled bistro decked out with dark furniture and black stained wooden floors, separated into a downstairs, piano-blessed bar, and an upstairs dining space marked by a wall of century-old newspaper clippings procured from a Parisian flea market -- so presumably they all read "Germany: No Threat There".
Starters include a polenta- & rocket-sided mantecato of salted cod, scallop and crab lasagne w/ chive beurre blanc, and avocado/tomato/cress Pea Arancini, described as "Risotto Balls" -- a condition which arises from constantly being stirred up. Mains have pan-fried sea bass w/ roasted fennel & trompette della morte, Denham Estate "Saddle Back" pork belly w/ chorizo Lyonnaise & apple sauce, and thrice-cooked chips with a 10oz Ribeye of 35 day Gallway beef, considerably less tough than the 35 year Belfast beef
The lower floor's floor-inducing cocktails include the "Sweet Sage & Pine" (tequila Reposado, blue agave syrup, sage, pineapple, lime), the "Brooklyn" (rye, Antica Formula, bitters, Amer Picon, maraschino), and the gin/sweet & dry vermouth/pom syrup/ orange bitters "R.A.C" -- if you think you're a Man after calling them, you're just Dear Mr. Fantasy.