Cali food in the OC

California love transcends geography, whether it's kids wearing her board shorts despite never leaving Nebraska, or Brian Wilson singing about her girls despite never leaving his room. Showing love for Cali's lean cuisine, Decanter

From a major Stephen Pyles taste-maker comes this left turn toward ever-inventive, always health-conscious West Coast fare, served in an airy, aqua-tiled, Mediterranean-style bistro & wine lounge, also where Burt Bacharach goes to complain about Dionne Warwick and her Psychic Friends. The perpetually evolving menu will rely on local- and Cali-based farms to supply ingredients for opening dishes like duck confit salad with preserved cherries & micro greens, pan-seared mahi on glass noodles with mango & fennel chutney, green peppercorn-sauced lamb chops with balsamic mushroom risotto, and, wrapped in a banana leaf with plantain-salsa-steamed rice on the side, braised St. Peter's fish -- a tilapia nickname drawn from a story about St. Peter catching a fish with a coin in its mouth, a parable summed up by "fish shouldn't be such chintzy bribers". The restaurant's name comes from the manner by which they plan to inebriate you: the art of filtering minuscule particles of sediment out of a bottle of wine using a fancier bottle daubed with a small amount of liquid, thereby separating detrimental detritus from flavor, because how's Flav supposed to find true love with a haggard Brigitte Nielsen standing behind him waving a broadsword

Decanter opens on the 29th, and will celebrate New Year's Eve with a four-course prix fixe (and midnight Champagne toast) whose good-for-the-body preparation will allow you to have food, food, food, until Carnie takes your game bird away.

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