Just in from Milan, the new 28-year-old chef at this downtown osteria is pulling all kinds of clever tricks out of his toque including a new, shareable small plate menu that features tasty mixed mushrooms sautéed w/ pancetta; stewed tripe, sausage, and salami Cazzoeula; a crabmeat-stuffed Pacchero Pasta w/ pesto, olives, and mascarpone; and an olive, prosciutto, and cherry tomato Pizzetta, which's smaller than a pizza, but still thinks it looks fat.