Food & Drink


Understated simplicity can be the best way to honor the beloved deceased, like JFK's eternal flame, the solitary tomb memorializing thousands of unknown soldiers, and a headstone reading "Billy Mays Here". Honoring a late patriarch through unpretentious fare and décor, Paul.Named after the owners' recently deceased father -- who, despite owning a corner pizzeria and his family-run Greek taverna, Effie's, on the same block, long dreamed of opening a homey bistro-type hangout -- Paul is a cozy 28-seat BYO with high ceilings and pale gray walls subtly accented with sconces illuminating the single room's dark tables, all anchored by a b&w photo of the restaurant's namesake, looking like a young Cary Grant, according to people who know what Cary Grant looks like. Keeping in line with the minimalist theme, apps're limited to six thoughtful choices, including lemon-infused balsamic ceviche w/ yellowfin tuna; house-cured duck prosciutto w/ poached pear & gorgonzola fritto; and crab spring rolls in a sambal soy reduction, w/ shiitake and shiso -- an herb that's heavy according to the Beatles. Six's the magic number for entrées as well, from chicken breast w/ farro risotto in Madeira jus, and scallops w/ braised short rib, chanterelle mushrooms, & prosciutto froth, to halibut in Bordelaise emulsion, rib-eye w/ roasted cippolini & bone marrow-stuffed parsnips, and marinated veal skirt steak with chorizo saffron rice and baby bok choy, because adolescent bok choy's not to be trusted around anything with a skirt.Paul's also specializing in a rotating selection of flavorful takes (including green apple & daikon kimchi, and jalapeño chimichurri tomato aspic) on oysters on a half shell -- a simple means of honoring the heroism of the valiant bi-valve counterparts to the Ninja Turtles.