Breaking tradition's a risky proposition, or else you'd be drinking New Coke and Mr. T would have a faux-hawk. Ignoring the dangers to serve affordable Latin fare in a Colonial mainstay, Avenida, opening Thursday
Situated in the first permanent structure erected along Germantown Ave (where the initial shots were fired in the Battle of Germantown), the former Cresheim Cottage Cafe's now Avenida, where a range of Latin dishes all priced below $20'll be served in the cozy 65-seater whose three rooms're split among a small front bar and twin dining areas decked out with dark wood trim, perfectly complementing the church pew seating along one wall, where you can kneel and say "Bless me father, for I have pork skinned". Starters and small dishes range from creamy black bean soup and grilled octopus w/ tequila-roasted tomatoes, hoja santa & avocado to mole-glazed spare ribs w/ corn fritters & roasted pepper chipotle cream; queso fondido w/ black beans, chorizo & roasted poblanos; and an Ecuadorian bouillabaisse known as El Biche, also the nickname for your high school Spanish teacher that proved just how little you'd learned from her. On the entrée side, Avenida's plating flat iron steak w/ chimichurri & roasted potatoes; pork pibil w/ green mole & zucchini cheese pudding; ancho chili-dusted duck breast; and pepita & pistachio-crusted tuna w/ chirmol & steamed rice, which is pissed because today's health-crazed diners seem to reverse discriminate against the white
Though the liquor license is currently going through red tape hell, it's expected within days, when Avenido's bar'll be pouring a slew of tequilas that'll also play roles in several specialty margaritas; for continued gorging, there're seven $6 dessert options including an ancho brownie sundae and a cinnamon crêpe -- eat 'em at the bar with your drinks, and they'll pity the stool.