When you take something common and class it up, the results are awesome, or in the case of The Beverly Hillbillies...really sad. Classing up common BBQ, Brand BBQ Market. Opening Thursday from a group of industry vets looking to combine elite culinary school class with the smoked delish of the masses, BBM's a 48-seat, sit down house of Q featuring a rustic, saloon-style vibe, chalkboard-style paintings highlighting its meats and sauces, cedar benches, and Douglas fir tables, still fired up from their epic debates with Lincoln logs. The chowing starts when you select your "Brand" (aka "Meat"), ranging from classics like baby backs, pulled pork, and brisket (ask about the charred, fried, fatty, succulent burnt ends), to elevated fare such as pork belly confit and pulled duck, a move Coach Bombay once successfully nailed with Goldberg. Meats get paired with one of seven sauces (they suggest ideal couplings) from their vinegar-based signature to more eclectic tastes like a bourbon mustard with brown sugar, a brandy cherry sauce with shallots and porcinis, and a sweet southern peach with SoCo, which makes her forget her sense of old-fashioned propriety. As for the other kind of sauce, it's BYOB for the time being, saving you bills that can be spent on sides like signature sauce'd coleslaw, bourbon creamed corn, and a smoked gouda mac 'n cheese spiked with some burnt ends, nearly as black as the oil that led to the Clampetts tragic upward spiral.