Food & Drink

Elate

Hitching your wagon to a single trend can be a perilous decision, as evidenced by impatient Oregon Trailers who'd always try to ford the rivers instead of caulking the wagon, and inevitably'd end up paying the ultimate price when HotPamAnderson would fall off the wagon, while being bitten by snakes. Betting on several food trends simultaneously, Elate

Now open in the swank Hotel Felix, Elate's a corner resto headed up by the former DeLaCosta chef who's covering multiple food trend bases (small plates, local/organic eco-friendliness, gussied-up comfort food) in a rustic space replete with distressed concrete accented by herringbone patterned oak, antique mirrors and bronze chandeliers overlooking a service-maximizing zigzag-shaped bar, the same evasive pattern women use to avoid your service maximizing pickup moves. Breakfasts kick off on the upscale comfort wave, with a Bèarnaise covered short rib "steak and eggs", caramelized crème brûleé pancakes, plus a braised pork and egg topped tostada, which is Spanish for both toast and disappointment, so a typical breakfast with your parents. Come evening time look for small plates like octopus pastrami with rye consommé, ricotta and raisin agnolotti (pickled grapes, lamb tongue), plus a smattering of more substantial entrees like a smoked spring chicken with corn panna cotta and a burger with applewood bacon smothered in creamed leeks, still reeling over their crushing flag football loss to shallots

Because sometimes your adventurousness comes only in bite-sized form, they're also fancifying bar snacks like fried dough with pesto, "Ruffles" & truffles (cause housemade waffle chips wouldn't have rhymed), and oysters served either traditionally or in an unusual preparation that'll be the chef's choice--just pray he avoids the Barlow Toll Road and opts for the river ... to flavor!*Photo by Andrew Fearman