Bao, banh mi and more in the West Loop

It's been said that starting on a smaller scale can prepare you for a larger version down the road, a truth that can be attested to by anyone who's married. Getting bigger, culinarily speaking, Saigon Sisters.

After opening a successful stand last year in the French Market, SS is taking their grandma-inspired Vietnamese eats to a modern industrial-chic bistro, with a lofted ceiling overlooking dark wood communal tables and metallic chairs, but not Metallica chairs, which demand just-ass for all. They've tapped a Charlie Trotter vet to run the kitchen and house charcuterie program, which'll churn out pates and head cheeses optionally added to banh mi like The Frenchman (duck confit, pickled mustard seeds, candied kumquat) and the lime-tinged, coconut-braised-beef-filled Sun Tanned Cow, something you used to only eat the first weekend back on campus. Further sustenance comes in the form of steaming bowls of beef or chicken-filled pho, cilantro-kicked shrimp lettuce wraps, and open-face steamed buns filled with pickled veggie-topped BBQ pork belly and shredded duck, which keeps trying in vain to get the pork belly to join the gym with him.

Things are rolling out breakfast/lunch-service only, but next month look for a dinner menu that's even more expansive, just like your wife. Sigh.