The magic of Miss Universe is how it brings together exotic representatives of femininity from all over the world, and puts them all in tape-fortified bikinis. Starting Wednesday, a global lineup of exotic seafood will engage in a talent competition for your heart, at L2O. Comprised of four minimalist-classy rooms serving prix-fixe and tasting menus (plus an additional a la carte lounge), L2O specializes in Asian-prepared aquatic superstars hailing from everywhere from Japan to Spain to Maine to...Santa Barbara (known for crabs both good and bad). The results play out in dishes Raw (Dungeness crab, w/ avocado, kaffir lime, & lemon oil), Warm (octopus w/ coconut, sea bean & olive oil), and nightmarish (fish eyes in kelp broth), plus "Mains" like cold-smoked sashimi style lobster w/ vanilla extract, mushrooms & watermelon radishes, and chorizo-bouillon-soaked white king salmon (race-rioting foe of Latin king salmon). There're also select offerings for land-grubbers, like pork belly w/ truffle & potato, lamb tartar w/ taragon & pickled peach, and Wagyu from Miyazaki, home of Japan's finest marbled fat. Instead of an armada of hosts/waiters, your entire experience is chauffeured by a single "Culinary Concierge", who'll seat you, take your order, mix specialty cocktails tableside, serve your food, and escort you out of the resto cheerfully singing "Here he comes, Mr. Ate All Our Lobster Claws..."