In the former Room21 space -- a onetime bordello frequented by Capone/raided by Ness -- Jerry Kleiner's solo debut seats nearly 400 between an inside brimming with hundreds of Kleiner's personal photos and trinkets and on a soon-to-open, Euro-style patio brimming with 40ft evergreens. The pan-Italian grub starts with an "interactive antipasti station", then moves on to hearty mains like handmade spaghetti Bolognese, Veal Milanese, and pan-roasted sea bass w/ rapini & anchovy sauce; booze includes 60+ wines selected by an ex-Alinea sommelier, Italian micros (they're the only Chi spot serving Birrificio Ducato's Verdi Imperial Stout), and cultured besottedness like the "21 Club Salute": Luxardo, rye, absinthe, and Scotch turning you into an angry green faerie who never wears underwear.
