A Chinese foodery's reborn

Some people inevitably follow in their father's foot steps -- Ivanka ended up in the boardroom, Jakob Dylan started a band, and Luke Walton clearly gets high as hell. For a son following his pops into food, hit up Red Egg.

From a dude whose father's been opening up notable NYC Asian ventures for more than 30 years (including Shun Lee Palace), this onetime Peruvian/Chinese joint's been re-conceptualized as an upscale dim sum-ery by day and "sleek lounge-like hideaway" by night; modeled after a traditional Chinese teahouse, they backed up the switch by trading in cement for stained black flooring, rebuilding the bar to double its original size, adding adjustable tables to accommodate the daily thematic transition, and adorning the slanted ceiling with a virtual koi pond made of 88 lightbulbs that're exposed, despite the fact that's hardly coy. The previous 400+ item menu's been seriously pared down and rocks Cantonese/Szechuan deliciousness including apps like roast duck wonton soup, salt & pepper squid, and garlic sesame'd fried spare ribs, plus larger plates of Peking duck sliders, sauteed flounder w/ olive sauce, and chive-bud'd steak cubes -- share it with friends and you'll be teaming the cube. Those looking for party favors'll find an "all hours" dim sum menu, broken into five categories including Steamed (veal chops w/black pepper sauce, roast pork bun), Grilled (chicken/beef skewers), Fried (corn cakes, crispy shrimp rolls), and Dumplings from cilantro pork to soup-style Shanghainese, who will sing that they are themselves if you please, and they are themselves if you don't please, until you eat them.

The fully stocked bar'll be mixing up specialty cocktails as well, from the honey vodka/strawberry puree/ginger ale Red Egg, to the jasmine cognac/lemon/ cucumber/sparkling sake Wakawaka, a drink that suggests in addition to following in his father's footsteps, the owner's also following in his Fozzie's.