Food & Drink

American craft(beers)manship in Columbia Heights

Whether they hate it or love it, everyone agrees this country was built on hard work, ingenuity, and about 25 or so kinds of sedimentary rock. Honoring the first two: Meridian Pint.Set to pop next Thursday, much-anticipated Pint's a bastion of nostalgic Americana, with a basement boasting taps from which you can pour your own beers built into certain tables, and walls/bartops with blueprints of industrial symbols like trains & bridges, plus a window-filled top floor with a long dark wood bar and a propaganda-ish mural of workers toasting a Rosie-the-Riveter-type sitting atop beer stills, which explains why Rosie's so rosy. Brew-pouring mechanisms are pretty inventive, including a gravity-poured, dry-hopped cask of Oliver's ESB, and the downstairs bar's dual-temperature setup, with a leftside tap-tree pouring lagers at 35-40 degrees, and a rightside jig spouting stouts/porters/ales kept slightly warmer; the 24 impressive American craft drafts range from Cali's Lagunitas New Dogtown Pale Ale to Jersey's Climax ESB -- unlike Climax ESP, which allows your GF to see into a future that'll never exist. Food's "American contemporary", with apps like beer battered, chipotle mayo-doused fried calamari, sandwiches like a half smoke with pork chilli and beer battered onion rings, and main course absurdity like a double cut, brined pork chop with rhubarb cider sauce, wheat-beer braised short ribs with mac' n' cheese, and a hearty New York strip, which is actually pretty disappointing, what with the topless-only-ness.They're also only the tenth spot in the country with the aforementioned table-mounted double taps, meaning you can self-serve beer after sliding your card to the server, who retains the power to cut off your flow should you go spouting off all sedimental.