Food & Drink

The next big thing in Za

Unexpected treasure's the best kind, like when you stumble on an adorably big-eyed mogwai at a Chinese curio shop and buy him for your son, despite dire warnings of the creature's penchant for trouble, and despite the fact that your son's not an eight-year-old girl. Firing up the greatest treasure of all -- pizza -- in a supremely WTF location, Cane Rosso, opening Thursday.From a Sorrento-trained Neapolitan specialist who, for a year, has been operating a mobile pizza catering truck, Cane's a dine-in/take-out nook tucked inside Chocolate Angel Too: a dainty confectionary that, for three evenings a week, is letting Cane commandeer its space to sling the foodstuff men binge on after getting dumped by someone who can't see how beautiful they are on the inside, and only cares about what their friends think, as if they have such great relationships anyway. Geez. How it works: the proprietor rolls into the parking lot with his two-ton trailer and enough never-frozen dough for up to 200, which he bakes in his 900-degree wood oven with quality ingredients like meats sourced from Manhattan's vaunted Salumeria Biellese and, for sauce, hand-crushed tomatoes, though obviously the temptation to foot-crush tomatoes is always there. Served at your table, the 13.5" pies come both light (the fior de latte cheese/basil/cherry tomato "Special K") and hearty, like the sausage/sopressata picante/mushroom Luana, the prosciutto/artichoke/olive/'shroom Capricciosa, and the variably-topped, "always spicy" Super Mario -- don't blame the mushrooms when you suddenly get big.Desserts include pizza fritti and a "S'more Calzone"; as for alcohol, Cane's BYOB, with fee-free uncorking & glassware supplied -- just don't spill on yourself, or you'll spawn all kinds of trouble.