Food & Drink

Steaks & Italian in Plano

When steak deigns to team up with a partner, it typically opts for seafood, thus providing diners the lighter option of, say, trout basted with the shame of not ordering a steak. Now, steak's teaming up with equally substantial Italian, at Flames Grill.Flames is a dual-threat co-venture from the manager of Plano's Fino's and an NYC transplant whose steakhouse experience includes a lengthy stint at famed Peter Luger's; it's housed in the ex-Rodeo Grill space, which has been largely left intact with dark-wood trim & partitions, intimate linen'd tables, and panoramic windows through which to gaze longingly at Trinity Mills construction. The NYC-sourced USDA Prime is dry-aged in-house up to six weeks, and priced far nicer than upscale competitors, with cuts including porterhouse, sirloin, rib eye, T-bone, and two filets; lamb/pork/veal chops are also available, also with traditional sides like baked/mashed potatoes, sauteed 'shrooms, and creamed spinach -- the most unhealthy treatment of a healthy thing since Deep-Fried Susan Powter. Using house-made pasta, the Italian's from a 20-year Manhattan resto vet, with specialties ranging from chicken/veal topped with mozz & prosciutto, to cheese-stuffed, tomato cream-sauced Raviolini Delicate (w/ sun-dried tomatoes/shiitakes), to Orecchietta la Flames: Italian sausage with ear-shaped pasta, which can totally hear you whisper, "I'm stuffed, but I'm going to finish the sausage".In keeping with its budget-minded bent, Flames is BYOB, though they will serve up to two free pours of wine or beer -- because when beer teams up with a partner, it almost invariably chooses more beer.