Food & Drink

It's like naked sushi, but not

After years of toiling for others, the most ambitious strike out on their own, and go for the throat -- Eric Clapton left the Yardbirds and became God, and that drummer left Nirvana and became Grohl. Following that lead, the guys behind Geisha House.Open after months of sly prep, Geisha's headed up by an ex-Kenichi chef and an ex-Kenichi/Nobu staffer/manager who's also one of Dallas' four sake sommeliers; their Japanese-fusion baby sports a gracefully cavernous main dining room with a full sushi bar, plus a long & low teppanyaki space, a raised patio overlooking Cedar Springs, an intimate side room with a low traditional dining table, and the cozy Roppongi Lounge -- diffused spot lighting, art formed from rolled-up Tokyo newspapers, angular red couches, and a purple-lit central bottle stack behind a square island bar. Whew. The menu's loaded: 17 appetizers (Geisha Blossom: Eel-sauced tempura jalapeño stuffed w/crab & cream cheese), six robata skewers (chicken, escolar, filet mignon, lobster...), 21 sushi rolls (Roppongi: snow crab, shrimp tempura, avocado w/ flaked-tempura topping), 35 sashimis & nigiris, and 10 entrees, from chicken/salmon/NY strip teriyakis to Kobe filet mignon to Chilean sea bass that's been miso-marinated (also the excuse for why you weren't loved long time). Por la booze, there are nearly 100 wines and 43 sakes, which're proudly displayed in a 15ft-tall shelved wall; both lists are dominated by $40-$50/bottle selections, though each has marquee entries, like the $275 Opus One cab and the $220 Junmai Daiginjo "Silent Stream" (what you fervently hope for every time you head outside 'cause the bathroom line's too long).Promoting your inebriation are a dozen specialty drinks: seven sake martinis (The Manhattan Project: Suntory Yamazaki w/ Martini & Rossi, sweet Vermouth) and five cocktails like Samuraiced Tea (Firefly Sweet Tea vodka w/ fresh lemonade) and the Iichiko vodka/Gekkeikan sake/soy/wasabi/tomato juice Bloody Banzai -- if you think you've ever tasted its equal, ex-Doobie Michael McDonald would be quick to correct: "That's what a Foo believes".