Food & Drink

Running through Garland

Nothing changes priorities quite like family, unless you're hitting an endless string of model-caliber floozies flown in from everywhere to sate your every deviant appetite, in which case, nothing changes priorities like TMZ. Starting anew with the nuclear unit in tow, the restaurateur behind JD's Kabobs.Just open in northeast Garland, JD's is the latest from the Ole Whiskers' seafood buffet king, who sold those joints off to more closely involve family & friends in this cookout-inspired concept; the spacious, homey digs, lit by iron/glass saucers and covered floor to ceiling in off-white granite tile, are managed by the owner's son, while the kitchen's run by his wife, who was raised in an Amish community that frowned on the kabob as an unholy flirtation with advanced stick technology. The cooked-to-order meats (Black Angus shoulder steak, chicken/quail breast, maple-glazed ham, kielbasa, jumbo shrimp) are impaled with wooden spikes, interspersed with red pepper and onion hunks, and accompanied by just-baked rolls and seared pepper & pineapple strips -- a welcome twist, especially if the pineapple has unexpectedly huge cans. Order a meal to get the run of the all-you-can-eat food bar (also avail a la carte), loaded with pulled chicken stew, jalapeno halves roasted with honey-spiked cheddar, pasta salads, figs topped with cream cheese & candied pecans, deviled eggs, and dolmas -- all in all, as much fun as Furr's, except fewer oldsters evil-eying you from behind shades that go over their actual glasses.To coddle your portliness, desserts include peach cobbler, Amish apple pie, white chocolate & macadamia bread pudding, and grilled-berry kabobs with chocolate truffles -- assuming you're not a billion-dollar ball-whacker, probably about as deviant an appetite as you can afford.