Back in Colonial days, France and Spain traded land so often, it made some territories feel like Alyssa Milano being tossed around between all-star pitchers, and Carl Pavano. Moving into former French territory, Si Tapas. Si's the latest venture by Cafe Madrid's co-founder, who closed his tapas mainstay Hola! in '08, and's now moved into Watel's old space, shipping out the French-ish white-'n'-crystal décor and replacing it with "I'm so relaxed, I might never return from lunch" Iberian earth tones. Armed with a covered front balcony, a puffy-furniture'd lounge, and a full bar, the new, bi-level digs are much bigger than Hola's, and the menu's about doubled: fan faves like patatas bravas and wine saffron chicken are joined by fresh green beans w/ Dijon mustard and Serrano ham, grilled mussels w/ garlic Catalan aioli, lentils w/ wild mushrooms, and the return of Cafe Madrid-borne sweetbreads -- because there's there's only so long you can live without a thymus. The bar, open till 2 am and built with concreted-in stacks of old wine bottles, features Spanish vino (two're from Cali, but from a Spanish family), Hola-style frozen sangria, and two pitcher-served concoctions made with rum & sparkling wine: the normally vodka/gin-based Agua de Valencia, and the Echegaray -- either named after the Spanish street, or a sneeze. Si also serves fruit & seafood paella daily, and Sunday brunch'll feature a custom communal pan of the stuff, served out on the rolling back lawn -- eat with slobs, and prepare to shine as you field grounder after grounder.