Artisanal eats in a cozy Wash Park space

Naming a restaurant after your favorite song can be a great way to show customers your impeccable taste: just imagine opening When the Lentils Break!...or, Whoomp! (There It Is, Your Pizza). For a fine-diner whose owners' taste in cuisine is as elevated as their taste in Coloradan indie rock: bittersweet

Named for the Big Head Todd and the Monsters song (...and for a Midwest vine, and a type of shellfish or chocolate, and the feeling of going out on your own for the first time), bittersweet's from a husband/wife team (the former a previous exec chef at Bistro One), serving up artisanal eats "rooted in classic French technique" in a cozy, rustically fireplaced 60-seater inside a former Sinclair station -- so now where are the guys from Big Head Todd going to work? Starters include rabbit sausage with potato chive dumplings and mustard sauce, prawns with crunchy goat cheese spheres/ greens/ fresno vinaigrette, and a New England chowder loaded with crispy pork, razor clams, and a "potato croquet", also a lawn game played by a guy named "Chip", because it's croquet. Ballad-worthy mains are packed fulla meaty goodness, like tender veal cheeks with a gratine brioche, a lamb cannelloni with house-made pasta/ ricotta, and short ribs with crispy polenta, black bean brodo, and cured yolk, because Boys Don't Fry

For Big Head Todd-style celebrating/sorrow-drowning, they've got a house Calvados/ mulled cider reduction/ cinnamon concoction called "Elysees", domestics like Dogfish Head's IPA, Stroh's (?), and Rogue Dead Guy, and imports like Lion Stout and a certain rare, Argentinian brew which'll finally give you the chance to say "Whoomp! (There's a Quilmes)".