Food & Drink

Sushi Den guys branch out

Little brothers are forever trying to live up to their older siblings, from Kevin Dillon growing up in the shadow cast by Matt's acting career, to Eli growing up in the shadow cast by Petyon's enormous head. For a little brother Asian joint looking to make a name for itself: OTOTO

Rocking red brick walls and garage door windows in the narrow former Den Deli space, OTOTO's the lil bro restaurant to famed Sushi Den, its name a play on the Japanese words for "younger brother" and "fish", which itself is all selected by the owner's actual brother in a Japanese chum market, cause the dude's super pikey. The menu starts with "Untouched" apps that've never seen the inside of an oven (from the raw bar's Fanny Bay oysters, to venison tartare with Chinese mustard on grilled bread) before moving on to "Lightly Touched" plates from a confit of foie w/ brioche/pear compote, to the intriguing "Egg in a Jar": a truffle whipped potato puree/diced ham/poached egg topped with American sturgeon, not be confused with American Surgeon, a trade glossy instructing you not to eat any of this stuff. Totally "Touched" mains include scallops with brown butter and celeriac, glazed chicken breast served on cabbage and shiitake mushrooms, a confit sunchoke garlic aioli, and squid braised in its own ink (squid: "will I ever live down this tramp stamp?")

They've also just bought their own Brighton farm to keep things fresh, and're using homegrown Japanese veggies related to okra, tomatoes, and cucumbers, which oughta grow robust and delicious, assuming the giant shadow emanating from Indy doesn't quite reach the fields.