“I’ll stack it against any drink out there,” says owner Will Hollingsworth.
And Fire Green as Grass is a miracle of balance in a cocktail: Bombay East gin, navy-strength rum, St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, and green Chartreuse. It’s all booze, yet remarkably drinkable. It’s a beautiful, gold-green color and made with exquisite care by the bar staff. And half of its ingredients could vanish from the state next year.
Hollingsworth’s goal, like many in Ohio’s still-young cocktail revolution, is simple: “Make the best drinks between Chicago and New York. We want to do that in Ohio, not in Michigan or Pennsylvania. The system is a huge challenge to that goal.” Like many other bartenders, he finds a hard-won silver lining. “If operating within this system means we just have to be that much more creative, so be it.”
So what will happen to the lauded And Fire Green as Grass if the inventory reduction plan goes forward? “I’ll 86 it,” says Hollingsworth. “At least it can die young and become the stuff of legend.”