The open ocean just beyond the harbor is where I'd imagined we'd be intercepting icebergs. Instead, we packed up and boated two hours north, along the backside of Random Island, until we were standing at a cove under a drizzly mist-fog aboard the boat of Captain Ed, who may literally have the most unique job on the planet. He's the guy -- the guy -- who for the past 30 years has won his living by leading a small crew to corral icebergs around Newfoundland. When we boarded, Ed fired up the engines, and a low, plastic-rattling hum took over the cabin.
"OK, we're right here now, in Land's Cove," Ed said, indicating on a map. "And the iceberg's up here. A place called Gin Cove."
"Go figure," Dan said.
The world lately has been fascinated by Ed's job. Documentary crews from France, Australia, and Japan have shadowed him. The Aussies apparently are making a series out of it -- "I said to the guys from Australia, how are you going to do 10 shows of us harvesting icebergs?" Ed said on the water, genuinely curious -- while the Japanese insisted he play the reality-show role of enthusiastic Ahab hunting icebergs he must refer to on camera as "treasures." The Japanese are the reason he still has dozens of .243 Winchester Super Short Magnum rounds aboard. It used to be that the preferred method of harvesting icebergs was capping them, to splinter off safe, manageable chunks that could then be scooped up from the water. "Oh, we shot boxes," Ed said. "We just do it for the movies, right?"