Wine Workouts Are Just What We Need in our Fitness Routines
Renata is Portland’s newest great Italian restaurant, and boasts an excellent cocktail program. It also offers its own variation on the negroni -- three, actually. The first drink of the negroni flight is the Mattina, which means morning. This one is made with gin, Cocchi Americano, and Campari’s lighter, more citrusy cousin, Aperol. The Mattina is the perfect kickoff: bright, delicate, slightly bitter, and floral.
Next is the Parms, which is far less bitter than most, and made with gin, Cappelletti, and Cinzano Rosso. This lack of bitterness makes the final drink, a classic negroni, even more astringent. The bar's intention is to have you taste your way through the flight once, and then go back to mix & match to see how the variations affect one another. Each drink in the flight is served half-sized, in adorably short tumblers.
Collin Carroll is a mad scientist behind the bar, infusing batches of cocktails via sous vide with wood charred in Trifecta’s ovens. It serves a double purpose: the batched cocktails allow for quick service to the restaurant and bar’s many seats, and it allows Carroll a unique, culinary approach to his drinks. It would be hokey if it weren’t so damn good.
The White Negroni is made with Beefeater gin, Suze bitters, and Dolin Blanc, and infused with charred chardonnay stems, which lends a subtle smokiness and an extra layer to an already nuanced cocktail. It wouldn’t work well with a more traditional “red” negroni, but pairs nicely with the lighter flavors of the citrusy Dolin Blanc vermouth and gentian-based Suze.
The rum negroni at Aalto Lounge, with a funky Jamaican rum substituting for gin, exemplifies that mutability of the drink. With just one exchange, you get a drink that’s unmistakably a negroni, but notably different. Really, this drink is probably closer to a noulevardier than a negroni, rum being more like whiskey than gin. But whatever the case, this rich, spicy, bittersweet drink is everything you’d want in a cocktail, as each ingredient stands out yet blends holistically.
From the bartending duo that brought us the Smith & Cross Negroni at Aalto comes the White Negroni at Bang Bang, Kate and Alex Wood’s newer Thai restaurant and bar. It’s distinct from Carroll’s, and not just for the lack of charred chardonnay. This White Negroni uses Suze as well, but also Aria, a Portland gin that’s perfect in negronis, and Cocchi Americano, a vermouth with quinine. This make it more bitter and more immediately recognizable as a negroni despite the difference in color. It’s a fun, vivid variation on the drink that pairs well with the Thai drinking snacks.
The birthplace of the Negroni Social, an industry costumed gala, which inspired the creation of Negroni Week, Nostrana is Portland’s capital of the negroni. This Italian restaurant in residential SE Portland is where Douglas Derrick started the negroni of the month program, later bringing in outside bartenders' and chefs' recipes.
Derrick left Nostrana a few years ago, and the bar program is now in the capable hands of Peter Carpenter, who was instrumental in getting other talent, like wine industry folks for last year's program, involved in the monthly negroni. Starting this month, this year's curriculum will see a return to its roots, using recipes developed by Carpenter and his staff. If the negroni of the month doesn’t tickle your interest, you can always just order the standard negroni, made with predictable aplomb.
After leaving Nostrana, Douglas Derrick ended up at Ava Gene’s, another excellent Italian place. There, he has continued his love affair with the drink and launched his newest brainchild: working with Beckham Estate, a winery and amphora maker, filling clay amphorae with batched negronis and burying them. Derrick and Beckham Estate determined the exact temperature at which to fire the clay to allow the right level of oxidization, so the negroni mellows and takes on new, earthier qualities. The next batch to come out of the amphora will be made with Aria Gin, Campari, and pinot noir rosé from Beckham, with the rosé forming the bulk of the drink. It’s going to be excellent.
Due to limited stock, the amphora negronis are sadly not always on the menu. In their absence, Derrick features a variation on the negroni called the Blonde Redhead (named for the band). Another wild creation, this one is almost like an inverse Manhattan, with Carpano Antica Formula vermouth, Barolo Chinato, and rye or Japanese whisky, depending on availability. This drink is then garnished with Derrick’s invention -- dehydrated Campari-orange dust. It’s like a deconstructed negroni, and it’s delicious.
The drink that started the barrel-aged craze nationwide: Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s barrel-aged negroni. What can be said about this drink that hasn’t been already? Morgenthaler took an already-perfect drink and somehow perfected it further, all while insuring that he and his bar staff could turn out negronis faster than anyone else (this was before everyone started batching their drinks). The barrel aging manages to both concentrate and mellow the drink, giving you a wonderfully smooth negroni that still manages to let bitterness through. There’s a reason it became as famous as it is.
The negroni is ubiquitous and popular enough now that there’s generally no reason to put it on a menu unless a) you’re doing something really different, like barrel-aging or infusing it with charred wood, or b) you’re making the best damn version of the drink. Option b is the case at La Moule, Portland’s favorite new cocktail bar and mussel restaurant. It’s only $10, equal parts Martin Miller’s Gin, Campari, and Antica Formula. Derrick at Ava Gene’s has said that water is the fourth ingredient necessary in balancing a negroni, and the staff at La Moule manages to hit that perfectly. The drink starts with a kick, and very slowly mellows as you drink it, without ever getting watered down. It’s just a great representation of the drink, without any embellishments.
1. Trifecta Tavern & Bakery726 SE 6th Ave, Portland
2. Aalto Lounge3356 SE Belmont St, Portland
3. Bang Bang PDX4727 NE Fremont St, Portland
4. Nostrana1401 SE Morrison St, Portland
5. Ava Gene's3377 SE Division St, Portland
6. Renata626 SE Main St, Portland
7. Clyde Common1014 SW Stark St, Portland
8. La Moule2500 SE Clinton St, Portland
Trifecta Tavern and Bakery is a fancy and stylish Eastside eatery where prime steaks, grilled flatbreads, and artisanal cocktails rule the menu. Fresh baked bread and fresh churned butter accompany every meal, which includes daily specials, wood-oven pizzas, and other snacks. Warm cocktails and an impressive wine list are also at your service.
This sleek wine and cocktail bar, named after Finnish designer Alvar Aalto, is decked out in mid-century Scandinavian furnishings. It also has one of the best happy hours in Portland, with a menu that has remained constant for years. It centers around three cocktails: a cucumber-lavender gin highball, a spicy vodka-pineapple sour and a bourbon option with pomegranate and lemon. Go during happy hour for discounted libations.
A Southeast Asian spin is put on the bar bites coming out of this Thai curry kitchen and cocktail bar, known for food with intense and aggressive flavor. A ten-seat bar in the back turns out affordable cocktails, like a Thai-ified version of an Old Fashioned (with housemade orange-cardamom bitters), while the cooks ladel curries late-night. Curries are served in karafs, to be poured into bowls filled with ingredients (like shrimp cakes, sticky rice, fried chicken) at your discretion. If you'd rather use your hands, vinegary chicken wings and skewers serve as the ultimate bar bite.
Nostrana is an Italian restaurant in residential South East Portland that features classic Italian food made with simple ingredients from long-standing recipes. It's also a quality spot for their wine list, dessert menu, and special happy hour deals. Plus, it's the birthplace of the Negroni Social, an industry costumed gala, which inspired the creation of Negroni Week, Nostrana is Portland’s capital of the negroni.
You'd expect a restaurant by Stumptown Coffee Roasters founder to serve good coffee, but Ava Gene's also excels at vegetable-focused, Roman-inspired New American fare. The chef, Joshua McFadden, honed his green thumb during years spent working at Maine's Season Farm, and puts his experience to use in elemental dishes that are packed with flavor, from carrot and beef slaw to roasted cauliflower with chili and anchovies. That's not to say meat doesn't sing here: duck leg is sweetened with pomegranate, and buttery porterhouse steak is served with mussels. The menu is "aggressively seasonal," so while you can't count of it being the same during every visit, you can be sure it will be fresh, with a different farm or producer highlighted on that day's list. Family-style meals, which the chef will craft based on the harvest, are worth splurging for.
Renata is one of Portland’s best Italian spots, serving up great wood-fired pizza, house-made charcuterie, pasta, spit-roasted pork loin, and more. The food at this farm-to-table restaurant speaks for itself, as does drinks menu. Renata boasts an excellent cocktail program, and it also offers a few of its own variations of the negroni.
Clyde Common's rocking Prohibition era-themed cocktails are crafted by top-notch mixologists, plus this spot also offers European-inspired eats in its casual space Downtown. The trendsetting tavern has communal tables and small plates. Snack on truffle popcorn while you wait for your Heavy Petting cocktail, made with vodka, quinine syrup, lemon peel and grapefruit.
There's something sexy about muscles... um, mussels, and that fact is especially apparent at La Moule. Eccentric patterned wallpaper and black leather booths set a seductive, vaguely European mood for four takes on the specialty shellfish, from a creamy iteration with saffron and thyme to a Korean-influenced broth with miso, ginger and kimchi. That's not to say you should stop there: Belgian-inspired favorites like rabbit pie are broken up by specials, like a heaping lobster BLT on buttered Texas toast with thick-cut bacon and caper-mayo skewered by a knife. An impressive Belgian beer selection is notable, but complex cocktails offer just as much reason to drink.