Downtown roasthouse is reborn on the waterfront

After years of purveying protein downtown, the crew behind Von's has transformed the former Wolfgang Puck's/Ipanema space into a glossy bastion of booziness on Harbor Steps where, in keeping with their name, they've got over 1000 spirits. Three of said spirits were created at their in-house alchemy bar, and all of them match nicely with edibles like brisket burgers on housemade sourdough brioche, and French country-style pizzas with a sourdough crust that, if you give a frick about being accurate, are actually called frics.Photo by S. Pratt