The fifth and final course holds special significance for Fetherston, and is a pet project of his. "It’s a classed up version of a really goofy Chilean drink" known as a terramoto, famously served at both La Piojera and El Hoyo in Santiago. What was originally "a giant plastic cup of vino pipeno (cheap Chilean table wine), a lot of Fernet-Branca, and pineapple ice cream" is transformed into a subdued dessert cocktail of pale cream fino sherry, dry and funky vin rancio, a touch of sirop de gomme, and "a little kiss of Fernet-Branca in there -- we didn’t want to go as full in as they do." As the fifth course and a dessert surrogate, the "Temblor" is bright and tropical from the dry fino sherry, while at the same time nutty and herbal. The caramelized pineapple cream ties it together, coating the experience with a rich but restrained sweetness that gets increasingly potent as the ratio of liquid to cream diminishes.
The full summer menu is an exploration of Latin culture, produce, and flavors. It explores social oddities, as well as misunderstood contemporary appropriations. The experience becomes as educational and interactive as it is delicious.
For the fall, however, Fetherston is stepping away from the geographic narrative, and entering into the abstract. The upcoming fall menu, which will launch in October, will center on the theme of leaves. At first blush, this may sound a touch on the nose as an autumnal subject, but Fetherston is confident that it will be as challenging and surprising as the preceding menus, if not more so. "Leaves seem like a very simplistic idea, but... it’s weird and complicated." In the development stage now, Fetherston is contending with more "metaphorical and allegorical interpretations of what is a leaf." One idea under consideration: old books, and the way old paper or parchment can have a consistency and aroma similar to an autumn leaf. "This is going to be the moment in the menu where people stop to say, ‘Wait, what?’"