Dupont's Frenchiest

Only those supremely confident in what they do get to double up their name, like Little Caesars with its delicious Pizza Pizza, or Egypt with its delicious Boutros Boutros-Ghali. The new secretary-general of French food: Bistro Bistro B.Covered in red porcelain tile and grapevine relief'd molding, Bistro Bistro is a cavernous, 277-seat duplex, in a space that once housed both a failed Chinese restaurant and a failed Italian market, and is now desperately hoping to avoid becoming the Epcot Center of Insolvency. Except for one dish, the classic French fare all comes in at $20 max, with staple apps like steamed mussels in white wine, pate de foie gras, and escargot, and entrees like veal stew, crispy duck a l'orange, and braised lamb shank, for eating, or driving into the pancreas of the inmate trying to steal your heroin baa-loon. Intoxicants include a reasonably priced, 25+ strong wine list, Stella, Becks, Newcastle and Hoegaarden on tap, and "hey, I'm in a bistro" cocktails from the vanilla vodka/Cointreau "Bistro Sunrise" to the citron vodka/Cointreau/cranberry "Bourdeaux Sunset" -- after which it's time for a "Nice Blackout".To celebrate tonight's grand opening, the Bistro's hosting a free buffet (with free wine) from 6-10pm -- an opportunity so great, it's worth disrupting your routine of din-din and Sister Sister.