After working tirelessly for years to build an empire, sometimes you want to tackle something that'll be less of a struggle. Like France. Doing exactly that, Todd English, at Ça Va
After conquering everything from coastal Latin to rustic Tuscan, T.E's taking a shot at the Galls from within an earthen-toned modern brasserie, warmly lit by the weather vane-esque metal rod fixtures hanging from the glossy, concentric rectangle'd ceiling, and filled out with textured brown leather chairs, florally deco'd banquettes, and large segmented mirrors, so you can watch yourself bug out.
AM fare kicks off with offerings like a dozen sunny side quail eggs w/ asparagus and "toast soldiers", smoked salmon sliders on mini potato-dill rolls, and mornay-sauced croque madame "fingers", while the afternoon brings everything from prime sirloin burgers w/ caramelized onions and house "T.E." sauce, to a roast lamb leg French dip (wise they're not also using the tongue, as it's a total gigot-lo).
Dinner expands on the richness with apps like torchons of foie w/ toasted rosemary bricohe & fig jelly, and roasted bone marrow w/ oxtail marmalade, plus entrees like the duck confit/pork sausage/braised lamb/Spring bean Todd's Cassoulet, chile-glazed parsnip-sided Berkshire pork shank, and a roulade of salmon sided w/ lentils and crab hollandaise -- when you're in Holland, crabs are on the menu every day
There's also a lounge serving up plates of carpaccio-wrapped crispy oysters and foie-stuffed 'shrooms, all to pair with cocktails like the A L'Absinthe, a mix of pear vodka, limoncello, house-made sweet n' sour, fresh basil, and Pernod absinthe, a spirit originally so widely enjoyed by the French it ensured their destiny was Toulouse.