Individual dedication leads to society-wide benefits -- where would we be now if Galileo hadn't risked it all to prove the Earth revolves around the sun, or if Kanye West hadn't risked it all to prove the Earth revolves around the son...of Ray West. Admirably dedicating themselves to wine, 28-50, officially opening today
A cozy, green paint/brick-walled, stripped-wood floor space evocative of a wine cellar, 50's named after the latitudes that grow the best grapes, fitting for a "kitchen and wine workshop" that presents an ever-evolving vino list, daily recommendations to match menu specials, and a constantly on-hand sommelier to talk you through their vast array of plonk and encourage experimentation (though first you must get comfortable with your Pinot). Wines are all available by the glass/carafe/bottle (nothing over 50 quid), with the opening month's list including a '97 Volnay Domaine de la Pousse d'Or and a '06 Nelson Chardonnay Neudorf; pulled from the cellars of the founder's personal contacts is a separate "private collector's list" boasting offerings like an '85 Dom Pérignon, an '89 Château Haut-Brion, and a '96 Lafite considered by many to be the estate's finest since its '86 vintage (the interim slump is blamed on the advent of the Olsen Twins). Because eating is sometimes good, the grape-friendly French menu kicks off with starters like cod brandade w/ parma ham & grilled sweet peppers, terrine of foie gras & confit chicken, and a pan-fried ballotine w/ sauce gribiche, black pudding, and ham hock -- sadly the foreleg cut, and not pork-flavoured German wine
Mains feature smoked pork belly w/ choucroute & caramelised apples, coq au vin w/ onions, bacon lardons & mushrooms, and "Bouillabaisse Marseillaise", with shellfish & rouille accompanying a pan-fried red mullet -- a haircut that certainly requires dedication, but also brands you a hair-etic.