What you’re getting: A three- to six-course menu (€42.50-72.50) featuring stuff like slow-cooked pork belly with Dutch pea stew garnishes, crumbs of rye bread, and a smoked sausage broth, or pearl barley with old cheese, cannelloni of leek, roasted onions, onion soubise sauce, cream of chives, a potato-based sauce, and star anise.
The old windmill this restaurant sits in isn't even necessarily the best-looking part of this tiny village of protected buildings 15km North of Groningen city. But since the restaurant's 2013 opening, it's probably the most visited. People are coming for not just the charm but also the food: despite the historic settings, the menu is all modern, putting together affordable local fare in inventive combinations that tip their hats to Dutch kitchen classics. A visit also soothes the conscience: Chef Steven Klein Nijenhuis refuses to serve any animals not raised completely ethically -- so no foie gras, chickens who grew up in tiny cages, or overfished tuna. And most of the greens are grown in the village.