In the heart of Buckhead, Umi looks like a sexed-up version of The House of Blue Leaves from Kill Bill, except with all the blood and gore reserved for fish in the back. It's exotified with white oak-paneled walls, a gold metal bar, and a 23ft sushi bar where Fuyuhiko Ito of former sushi house MF Buckhead will slice and dice denizens of the sea.
The white oak walls give the space a warm feel, though not quite as warm as the charred wood walls, which were hand-burned using the ancient Japanese application of Shou Sugi Ban.
Meticulous attention to detail is exactly what you'd expect from Ito (assuming you pay enough attention to detail to remember him), and it's evident in this assorted nigiri plate, as well as the spider and shrimp tempura rolls.
The cucumber wrapped white fish is delicate and way too pretty to eat. Well, obviously not, but at least admire it for 2-5 seconds before devouring.
Dessert means this Yuzu lemon meringue with blackberries and creme anglaise.
The cocktail menu is as thoughtful as it is thought-destroying. Just check out this Yamazaki 12yr-heavy "Nine-Pound Hammer", with Darjeeling, apricot preserves, rhubarb bitters, and an orange peel knot, despite this definitely being the black belt of drinks.
And this beauty's called Harp Strings, and accents mint-infused vodka, lychee, lemongrass syrup, and Prosecco with edible flowers. Just be careful not to overdo it, as anyone who's seen Kill Bill knows that even the prettiest flowers can pack a punch.
Food photos: BenRosePhotography.com