Rule: Austinites are skeptical of any chain not circling the sprocket of a bike. Exception to the rule: Houston-based Willie G's, which just launched its fourth location, this one a) run by a guy who spent 10yrs at Sullivan's, and b) set up in the base of the Frost Tower, ATX-ified with live music, local libations, and vintage photography of Austin landmarks. Formerly McCormick & Schmick's, the interior's been totally revamped with an even darker and more candle-lit old-school steakhouse vibe. One of the many classic Austin photos: a mid-century shot of the Paramount that predates A Tuna Christmas. The Oyster Bar Trash includes blackened shrimp and jumbo lump crab. The Mini Bakers apply all the traditional toppings of a steakhouse spud to bite-sized fingerlings, an app that's foreplay for... ... their USDA Prime New York Strip, served as rare as a not-disgusting joke about fingerlings. Libations range from taps like Austin Beerworks to cocktails like Mexican Martinis and a New Old Fashioned fueled by Garrison Brothers Whiskey -- a liquor nearly as uncommon as an acceptable chain restaurant.