In Mexican markets, tortillerias, and bakeries across the state, people in their Sunday finery line up early for their orders of by-the-pound Sunday beef barbacoa with tortillas and all the fixings. Get a pack of fresh corn tortillas from Tortilleria La Nueva Puntada, less than two miles away. They’re kept in the warmer by the front cash register. While there are tables and a counter at La Guadalupana, take your bounty home, where it will be barbacoa for breakfast, the traditional method of enjoying dish.
The mod taqueria cooks barbacoa -- here beef shoulder -- in six quick hours in a tilt skillet (a commercial, stand-alone braising pan) with a familiar base of seasonings -- onions, carrots, celery, garlic, bay leaf -- finished with a heap of chipotle peppers, powder, and Dos Equis Amber to tenderize the meat. Servings come in taco form with a fresh tortilla made from nixtamalized corn, the old-fashioned way, but with a smooth texture. The barbacoa tacos at Urban Taco make for a great entry point for those interested in exploring traditional Mexican food without well-intentioned knee-jerk reactions.